Saturday 8th February - Fox Glacier to Haast Village

The wind was from the North today and on our backs. We were joined in our cycling by Matthew, a Kiwi from Auckland. He had cycled the West coast in his student days when he studied at Christchurch and was reliving the experience. 

We went past the Salmon farm that was mentioned in our " Pedalers Paradise" book but there was no mention of a cafe. So we were pleasantly suprised and pleased to find a really nice cafe stop. There has not been many times we have said that this holiday!  We had booked a camping spot at about forty miles south, at Miranda but got there at lunch time progress was so good. We made the decision to carry on which meant that the only option now was to stay at Haast Village which meant a 75 mile day. So we must have been feeling good.

The last bit of the day was hard. we were right on the coast with a strong westery wind now as it had moved round in the day. Progress was slow and we got to Haast village at six and feeling like we had done a hard day.

We stopped at the "Top Ten " campsite which usually has good wifi but the wifi was terrible. We had entered a broadband black spot which is why this blog is being written retrospectively some three days later!

The early morning mist clears over Fox Glacier Town

A nice spot and Matthew has joined us on our cycle ride and take a rare photo of both of us.

Matthew is from Auckland

 

Enjoying an energy boost at one of the lookouts as we near Haast.

Friday 7th February - Franz Josef to Fox Glacier Village

It was only 15 miles on the route today but a lumpy one with three hills to climb but it was all completed in a couple of hours. We cycled and then walked to Lake Matheson this afternoon and had great views of what with think is Mount Cook. Taking it easy and getting lots of time to look around makes sense in this scenery.

Thursday 6th February - A day in Franz Josef Village

We decided to take a days break here as it is so lovely. There is a little side road excursion that takes you up the valley with the glacier in it . We thought we would cycle just a few kilometers to the car park and go along the short one and a half hour walk to the viewing point.

The day started rather cold in the tent. I think we must have been in mountain dew as I could here drops of condensation dripping off the inside of the fly sheet. The grass was soaking when I went to the toilet block. We lay in our sleeping bags and at about eight a.m. a shaft of sunlight finally got over the mountains and the damp burnt off within minutes. It has been a lovely hot day, one of the hottest we have had and yet according to the local information this is the wettest place in New Zealand according to annual rainfall figures. We are so lucky.

We walked to the glacier viewing area and viewed the small glacier, it has receeded considerably over the years. We returned to our bikes and spotted a sign to Peter's Pool and it was only a short walk. It was a beautiful natural pool with the glacier as a backdrop. There was a seat in the shade, so we could enjoy an afternoon rest/nap watching the swallows dive to the waters surface to feed. This was the most beautiful part of NZ so far!

A lovely relaxed day and well worth the stop over.

Talking on Skype as the sun went down last night

First thing this morning. The sun has soon burnt of the dew

Notice at the start of our walk

Nice waterfalls on the way

That's as far as you get to the glacier unless you purchase a helicopter flight

Peter's Pool where T had a sleep on the bench. My best spot in NZ so far

Wednesday 5th February - Harihari to Franz Josef Glacier

This morning was a beautiful morning with low cloud rising steadily from the valley.  Tony was up and out early with the camera to capture the scene. We had a lovely gentle ride today once we trundled over Mt Hurcules, it sounds much worse than it is.     We stopped at a picnic spot near Wahopo lake as I had made sandwiches for our lunch, ate quickly though despite it being a lovely spot, due to sand fly invasion.  Catherine caught a few on her arms again.

The clouds lifted late morning and the snowy tops came into sight.

Had a coffee and postcard writing stop at Whataroa village at about the half way point.

A demonstration of the NZ sense of humour on show once again. 

Below, relaxing at out camp at the Top 10 site at Franz Josef Village with the glacier in sight, machine wash all done and drying nicely on the line, afternoon tea and biscuits now I think!

Tuesday 4th February - Hokitika to Harihari

We managed to get sorted early today and cycled the short distance to the supermarket in town for supplies as rumor had it that there were no shops on route to our destination today.  All the cafés came just at the right time however, a rarity in our NZ travels.  Both cafe stops were highlights of the day for very different reasons. We were impressed with the rain forest as we tootled along towards our days destination.

Our first stop was at Ross, an old gold mining town. Two loaded bikes were outside the cafe and we met Will and Huri from California, two young guys getting some touring in before their study term started again.  

The C.T.C New Zealand trip that we bumped into

We were then joined by 17 cyclists on the CTC tour organised by Peter Croft.  The cafe at this point was fast filling up with cyclists.  Later two other UK cyclists who we met outside the supermarket at Hokitika the day before also joined us all, as well as Mr Yan, another independent cyclist who we have met on a few occasions over the recent days.   We all had a good chat and it seemed strange to be with so many other cyclists. We soon realised that the CTC tour was going the opposite way to us but we still had a little peloton of cyclists all heading for Hari Hari, consisting of Mr Yan, Will and Huri, and another young couple from the UK as well as us both.

We came across a few more single track bridges which proved interesting when a vehicle was heading towards us! 

A typical bridge which is single track so you have to get a move on!

Our second stop was at the West Coast famous cafe 'Pete's Possom Pie Cafe' which had an anti establishment and strong sense of humour atmosphere. The owners are no longer allowed to sell Possom Pie but you could have one free for a small financial contribution to the fund fighting government regulations on home caught meat!

Few sandflies at the moment there seems to be less around but Catherine still has loads of bumps all over her with six on one hand.

Monday 3rd February - Greymouth to Hokitikai

We had a pleasant ride today.  Started out from the camp site along the cycle trail which was better than we thought.  The trail ran between the shore line and the road.  The riding was easy as there was no wind and it was flat.  We came across some unique features of the area, mainly to do with the old railways.  The main road at one stage, at Taramakau Road Rail Bridge, went into a single carriageway with the rail track in the centre while crossing a major river.  A unique rail road bridge.  On another occasion on a main road junction at Kumara Junction the rail line split the roundabout into two.  

After about 10 miles we decided to continue on the road.  This was a good move as we came across a lovely cafe, called The Honey Pot, and Wow, it was open. We just had to stop. 

We arrived at Hokitika town and ready for another cycling day tomorrow towards the glaciers.

Sunday 2nd February - Punakaiki to Greymouth

Some great coastal cycling today with some lovely sea stacks. Even found a cafe at the halfway point. 

We met Mr Yan on our travels who was cycling the same way as us. He had a really nice Surley bike.

The official start of the West Coast Wilderness Trail but it was loose gravel about an inch thick and had huge sea stones in it. A no go on our touring tyres which is making us reconsider if we should do any trails at all in NZ. It may be best to stick to the roads which is disappointing but these trails are designed it seems for mountain bikes.

We will follow this along the coast on tomorrow's route. It looks as though it has worn in better here so we will give it a try.

This is where we are tonight. We had a look at the beach this evening and it was a long stretch of grey sand. We have largely been on the West coast of NZ this holiday and the beaches have been disappointing. I think that Australia spoilt us last year when it came to lovely beaches. The traffic may get heavier as route 7 has joined with route 6 now as we continue South.

We are staying at a "top ten" site tonight. They are expensive but they have kitchens and lounges and it makes the camping easy and we can charge our phones etc and use the wifi. The schools are starting back shortly which means hopefully that things will be less busy and there will be less children around. 

If you come to NZ and buy anything be prepared for them to finish the transaction by saying "fly buys". It threw us at first, it's some sort of points system like air miles but at first when they finish with Fly buys you think it's some way of saying goodbye!

Saturday 1st February - Rest day in Punakaiki

We decided we needed a rest day and as the backpackers was reasonably priced and comfortable,  why not stay an extra day. The Pancake Rocks and Blowholes were just up the road so we could take a gentle day walking up to see them.

Life is all about timing and we had a late start as we had light rain early morning and we spent time in the lounge at the backpacker lodge looking at our future plans and route as well as organising a touch of washing our very limited supply of clothing.  High tide was 12.45 p.m. and it worked out as we arrived at the view point there at 12.20. The sights were spectacular!  Last year we spent a lot of time on the Great Ocean Road looking at rock formations but we both agreed the these took it to a new level. We were glad that we had given ourselves a day to see them and that we could do so without worrying about the bikes and kit.

Above the dreaded sand flies! The outer tent was alive with hundreds of them and some made it to the inner tent and Catherine suffered a few bites in the night. Our skins could not be more different. I must have been bitten but if so, I am unaware, whereas Catherine has great big bumps all over her despite four antihistamines per day . They are a real pest and the worst thing about travelling around New Zealand.

The blow hole in full swing. This was enough to soak some unexpecting tourists down wind.

This is what the sign said you should see

Yes I can see some of that at least

Well what do you do at Pancake Rocks? ......Eat pancakes? ..... Well that works for me! With banana, bacon, honey, cream.  Wow.

C takes a rest as the sea crashes in.

The backpackers as seen from the seashore. You can just see our tent pitched at the back.

Above route six a road we have cycled for many a mile on South Island

Getting our kicks on route six!

There is a walk along the riverside which looks great.